The odd cast yielded no bites, but in the main I’d catch something every time. Eventually we realised a stoat-like animal had grabbed it, not a pleasant sightĬasting the lure in, I had a fish in seconds. We couldn’t work this out at first, seeing a seagull struggling on the surface. As I got my meagre fishing kit sorted out, I swear the water in front of me started to bubble, as fish leapt from the water in tens, presumably to escape larger predators beneath. For a reason I can’t twist my head around, this creates a frenzy of feeding activity. Every 6 hours the pull of the moon forces up to 400 million cubic meters of water either in or out of the Skjerstadfjorden, generating one of the world’s strongest tidal flows (THE strongest according to local tourist info leaflets). The Saltstraumen straight, all 150m of it at the narrowest point, links up two fjords, one of which (the Skjerstadfjorden) is like an inland sea, disappearing off to my right. Four tolls later (totalling 73 NOK), we drove over the Saltstraumen bridge, and down the narrow road to the spot we’re parked at now. Unlike tolls across Europe, Norway seems to just decree any old teeny bit of road toll-worthy, even if it’s just driving into a housing estate. More tolls out of town had me internally grumbling. Odd design motorhome dump station in Bodø Five minutes later the wheel brace went back: too small for Zagan’s mighty nuts. We left with a couple of brake lights for Zagan (one had gone), a wheel brace (not had one for the past 6 months trip), a small tube of silicon (used the last one resealing the sink the other day) and a couple of canisters of gas for our outside gas cooker. For Norway, the prices in there are very reasonable. They sell everything, from lobster pots to tandems, those things that stop boats being scratched by the quayside to horse blankets. If you think Halfords on Steroids, you’ll get the picture. The strapping great BILTEMA sign opposite drew us in for a long gander once we’d done. Diesel’s much cheaper on the mainland at 11.20 NOK (about £1.05) a litre, and while there we used their weirdly-designed but totally free dump station. First stop (after launching the cupboards sky-high on an unmarked speed bump): the Esso station. Financial Independence / Early RetirementĪfter a broken night’s kip at up Bodø (stomach cramps for me – possible result of drinking a litre of out-of-date milk perhaps?), we set off out of town.Gallery of Photos from Our Book: The 200.
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